By Clark Collis
Updated August 01, 2014 at 06:00 PM EDT
Doctor Who
Credit: Steve Brown/BBC America

An extremely long scarf. An umbrella with a handle in the shape of a question mark. A fez. The lead character of British science fiction show Doctor Who has sported some very, let’s say, eye-catching accessories during the half-century history of the show, which returns for its latest season on BBC America August 23. But new Doctor Who star Peter Capaldi was determined that his Time Lord would keep things lean and mean, sartorially-speaking.

“I was keen to avoid items that can be fetishized and turned into merchandise,” says the actor ,who worked with costume designer Howard Burden to come up with the Twelfth Doctor’s look. “I’d always seen him in dark colors, maybe because that’s how I started with Doctor Who in the black and white days—all those Doctors tended to be dark.”

The Twelfth Doctor’s stripped-down outfit includes dark drainpipe pants, a white shirt, and a red silk-lined coat by British high-end fashion company Crombie, sales of which reportedly doubled after a photo of Capaldi in his time-traveling finery was released by the BBC back in January. “I went to art school, I like rock & roll, I like German expressionism,” says Capaldi. “We tried to pack all these things into quite a severe look, which I think looks cool, while being quite classic as well.”

Cool, classic—and timeless? What do you think about the Time Lord’s new threads?

For more on Doctor Who, pick up a copy of this week’s Entertainment Weekly, on stands Friday.