By Marc Weingarten
Updated July 14, 2000 at 04:00 AM EDT

Sister Hazel’s Fortress goes down like a yummy snack cake. There’s lots of golden, springy melody to sink your teeth into, and the creme filling is nothing but sweet, gooey harmony clusters. But even the tastiest Twinkie is still just junk food — synthetic and unsatisfying. Besides, don’t you know that stuff’s bad for you? C