When McGraw hit big with 1994’s ”Indian Outlaw,” he looked like a commercially successful embarrassment, à la Billy Ray Cyrus. On All I Want, McGraw makes an astonishing leap to fully realized performer. His superlative song choice (”All I Want Is a Life”), emotional embodiment of a lyric, and persona — the loser with a heart of gold — make him this year’s most deserving underdog. A
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