The Reach of a Chef
- Current Status
- In Season
- Michael Ruhlman
Ruhlman tries to define the chef’s role in our ”sprawling, food-neurotic country” by profiling trendsetters from Masayoshi Takayama to Rachael Ray.
Ruhlman has a terminal case of chef worship, but he reserves his most obsequious praise for Thomas Keller, the ”artist-monk” of California’s French Laundry.
A fun page-turner on what happens in restaurants, but Ruhlman’s breathless accounts of minor kitchen mishaps — spilled vinaigrette, broken egg yolks — border on self-parody.