Trendspotting at Fashion Week
Imagine the running of the bulls in Pamplona but with nicer clothes and potholes, and you’ve got New York’s just- concluded Fashion Week. This year, designers demonstrated their bullishness for ’50s wear and everything Warhol. Below, some of the spring’s top looks and the celebs who should take note of the trends. As they say in Spain, Ole!
Trend 1: Confidentially Speaking
Designers are in a ’50s flashback. With a soundtrack from Eisenhower-era films like Vertigo and The Bad Seed, John Bartlett explored his L.A. Confidential-like noir side with shiny white trench coats and crystal-studded red skirts. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs sent Kate Moss down the runway in June Cleaver-ish pleated skirts. Oh, Ward-robe! HEADS UP FOR: Gwyneth Paltrow, updating 1954’s Dial M for Murder — maybe the only star in Hollywood who can carry this look. ”You have to be tall and skinny,” says stylist Inge Fonteyne, who has dressed Paltrow. ”I don’t think those skirts will work on anybody else.”
Trend 2: Mope Rock
Designer Wynn Smith reworked forgotten artifacts from tours by Morrissey and the Smiths into chic side-slit shirts. Who’d have thought the morose Morrissey would find a home in New York’s manic fashion scene? ”I think it’s kind of romantic,” says Smith, ”which is very much what’s going on in fashion right now.” HEADS UP FOR: Sean ”Puffy” Combs. If you’re going to sample the ’80s, you’ll have to start wearing them, too.
Trend 3: Warhol Mania
Pop went the runway at Stephen Sprouse, who put I Shot Andy Warhol actress Lili Taylor in the front row and outfitted his models in silk-screened clothes featuring Warhol’s mug (not to mention Andy-size sunglasses). The artist was also treated to 15 more minutes of fame by Cynthia Steffe (who mimicked both Andy’s self-promotional genius and his signature portraits by putting her face on one of her own dresses) as well as by Spooky (which plopped Andy obsession Marilyn Monroe onto leather skirts). HEADS UP FOR: Neve Campbell, whose disco movie 54 will put her smack-dab in the middle of Warhol’s world.
Trend 4: The Ideal Fete Accompli
Once again, Mark Badgley and James Mischka, favorites of Sharon Stone and Teri Hatcher, provided a dress rehearsal for Oscar night with a breathtaking collection of elegant beaded dresses in nudes and Easter-egg pastels. Inspired by Marilyn Monroe, the collection drew raves from Penelope Ann Miller and Alyssa Milano, the latter calling it ”old-Hollywood fabulous.” HEADS UP FOR: Any actress who’s awards-show bound. No one ever makes a worst-dressed list wearing a Badgley Mischka.
Trend 5: The Great Danes
Echoes of the cool blue Oscar combo of Claire Danes (a cashmere T-shirt and skirt by Narciso Rodriguez for Cerruti) could be eyed everywhere. Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs not only crossed their tees but also went for the same sort of baby-blue color scheme as Danes. Stylist Wendy Schecter, who helped remake Courtney Love, endorses the low-key luxe look. ”Why wear a Gap T-shirt,” asks Schecter, ”when you can wear a 4,000-ply cashmere?” HEADS UP FOR: Madonna, who might need more dressed-down evening duds now that she’s a busy working mom.