Alexandra Jacobs
October 17, 1997 AT 04:00 AM EDT

It may be unsettling to find out that Julia Child ever lusted after anything naughtier than a good burgundy. But our sanctified ”lady of the ladle” has, with characteristic elan, flung open her entire life’s chest of drawers — diaries, letters, falsies, you name it — to Anais Nin chronicler Fitch, so what can you do? Fortunately, the 6’2” Pasadena native — with her severe case of dropski, her penchant for talking back to appliances, her inimitable timbre — has had an unusually meaty life with a sweet love story at its core. Best to make like you did while watching her wrestle with chicken legs: Sit back, slightly dazed, and let the drama unfold. A

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