Rhonda Johnson
December 17, 1993 at 05:00 AM EST

Lutece: A Day in the Life of America's Greatest Restaurant

Current Status
In Season
Irene Daria
We gave it a B+

Dining in a four-star restaurant is not just about good food-it’s good theater. At Lutece, a 32-year-old classic-French restaurant in New York City, chef and owner Andre Soltner is the impresario responsible for the seamless elegance of the show. In Daria’s quest to reveal the soul of a great restaurant in Lutece: A Day in the Life of America’s Greatest Restaurant, (whether Lutece is America’s greatest, as the subtitle claims, is debatable), she discovers in Soltner a talented, driven craftsman who has charmed the world’s most discerning diners. Besides divulging Soltner’s cooking secrets, the book is an engaging overview of the restaurant business, framed by one suspenseful Friday in November 1991, when Soltner and his crew awaited the number of stars bestowed by The New York Times. Recipes sprinkled throughout the book are an added treat, but somehow selle de veau Prince Orloff doesn’t really translate to the ’90s home-dining experience. B+

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