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A Moveable Feast

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The normally stately ”Smithsonian World” has tried to liven things up by hiring Linda Ellerbee’s production company to make its television debut with a fast-paced look at how humans have fed themselves through the ages.

A Moveable Feast begins in 1627 in Plymouth, Mass., as an actor dressed up like Gov. William Bradford talks about the food his young colony is harvesting. It’s jaw-droppingly dull.

Writer-narrator Lloyd Dobyns, Ellerbee’s former NBC News pal, then guides us through the history of American food manufacturing, culminating, of course, with McDonald’s restaurants.

Along the way, the formerly witty Dobyns writes himself narration such as this: ”What did the Dutch add when they settled in the Northeast? What else? Cheese…”

Oh, cheez, Lloyd. D